New Roads – Randall Oak, Langlois Oak, and Francois Samson Oak

Old oaks and new azaleas – New Roads and St. Francisville, LA

Cyndi and I recently returned from our annual azalea-season swing through South Louisiana, that time each spring when for a colorful month or so, azalea blooms burst like multicolored confetti across yards, gardens, and parks from New Orleans to New Iberia and north from Natchez, Mississippi, to Nacogdoches, Texas.

After a brief stop at Jefferson Island and Avery Island, where we revisited the old oaks at both locations, we spent several days in the St. Francisville and New Roads areas. We revisited and measured the Randall Oak in New Roads (36’ 5” in circumference) and met its current owners, Madeline and David Breidenbach. I’ve written about the Randall Oak before (post from May 24, 2014), but wanted to revisit this magnificent tree, spend time walking its perimeter, standing under its enormous branches, and photographing it.

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Because of its girth, The Randall Oak deserves to be one of the officers of the Live Oak Society (possibly next time they revisit that list). To my knowledge, there are less than 20 live oaks with girths of more than 30 feet in Louisiana and the South. These are trees that were already mature when Europeans first began settling what became America, and as such, should be recognized as national heritage trees. (I’ll focus on these oaks specifically in a later post…)

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In the historic heart of New Roads, we met Randy Harelson and Richard Gibbs, owners of the LeJeune House on Main Street. There we photographed the Francois Samson Oak that grows behind their home and spent a pleasant time discussing the local history and oak trees. With a girth of nearly 29 feet, the Francois Samson Oak is one of approximately 62 oaks registered with the Live Oak Society in Pointe Coupee Parish.

                        Francois Samson Oak

Harelson is the author of the book, New Roads and Old Rivers, Louisiana’s Historic Pointe Coupee Parish (LSU Press). It’s a wonderful review of Pointe Coupee’s rich history, beautifully illustrated with color photos by Richard Sexton. It’s a lovely book, created through the fund-raising efforts of the Pointe Coupee Historical Society  (we purchased an autographed copy from Randy before we left).

New Roads is the parish seat of Pointe Coupee. The first settlement there can be traced back to 1822, a little later than the French and German settlements along the Mississippi River above New Orleans. Since its founding, New Roads has been the hub of an agricultural community that produced sugar cane, cotton, pecans, and other crops. Since the 1900s, New Roads has become a resort community where people from across Louisiana come to enjoy the tranquil waters of False River.

Actually, the river is an ox-bow lake formed when the Mississippi River changed its course sometime in the distant past, choosing another path for its main channel. As a result, there are numerous old live oaks growing in the rich alluvial soil that lines the river’s banks, like the Langlois Oak (located on the west bank of False River north of downtown; girth 27 feet, nine inches.

Langois Oak, New Roads, LA

                                                  Langlois Oak, New Roads, LA

Taking the new John James Audubon Bridge, we crossed the Mississippi near New Roads to St. Francisville. There we explored the azalea-festooned oak alleys at Afton Villa Gardens and The Oaks Plantation, where we were fortunate enough to catch the azaleas near the peak of their spring bloom, bursting with brilliant pinks, rust-reds, magentas, and soft whites.

Afton Villa oak alley and azaleas

                                                    Afton Villa oak alley and azaleas

We spent a bright morning at the Oaks Plantation where with the permission of owners Betsy and Irv Daniel, we photographed their alley of oaks that leads from the front gate off Hwy 61 around a dogleg turn then to the porch of their historic Gothic Victorian home built around 1888.

The Oaks Plantation, oaks and house

                                             The Oaks Plantation, oaks and house

(Next post – More about The Oaks and Afton Villa)

The Randall Oak, New Roads, Louisiana

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Along Louisiana State Highway 1 traveling toward New Roads, not far from the west bank of False River, the alert driver can spot one of the largest and most beautiful live oaks in the state—the Randall Oak. Located in the front yard of the home of David and Madeline Breidenbach, this massive species of Quercus virginiana has a circumference of approximately 35 feet, eight inches, a height of 68 feet, and a crown spread of 156 feet. Continue reading

The Evangeline Oak, St. Martinville

Evangeline_1099Each year, thousands of tourists visit St. Martinville, Louisiana, in search of the roots of Cajun culture—to experience the food, music, and to visit the places associated with the story of Evangeline. The Evangeline oak is undoubtedly the most famous oak in Louisiana, though oddly it’s not a very old or exceptionally large tree. And according to some sources, it’s the third oak in the St. Martinville area that has been designated as the “oak under which the Cajun lovers Emmeline and Louis were reunited” after their long separation when the Acadians were exiled from Canada. (Emmeline and Louis are reported to be the real-life characters upon which Longfellow’s fictitious Evangeline and Gabriel were modeled.)

Evangeline_9458The Evangeline Oak is located on the edge of Bayou Teche at the foot of East Port St., next to the Old Castillo Bed and Breakfast (which I can personally state is very haunted—but that’s another story!).

The Gabriel Oak, a lesser known and larger tree, is located in the Longfellow Evangeline State Historic Site, a wonderful historic park well worth visiting, just a mile or so north of St. Martinville on Hwy. 31. The park showcases several historic buildings and gives a broader realistic view of the historic period of the Cajun settlement of Louisiana.

Gabriel Oak, panoramic view

Gabriel Oak, panoramic view

Gabriel Oak, view toward Maison Olivier Creole cottage

Gabriel Oak, view toward Maison Olivier Creole cottage

In the St. Martinville graveyard next to the Catholic Church of St. Martin de Tours, you can find a tomb for Evangeline, topped with a bronze metal statue. The grave bears both the name Evangeline and Emmeline Labiche, but in actuality, the tomb is empty. The statue is modeled after Dolores Del Rio, the Hispanic movie star, who played Evangeline in the 1929 silent movie adapted from Longfellow’s poem. The statue was a gift from the movie cast and crew to the people of St. Martinville after filming was completed.

So what’s true and what’s fiction about the Evangeline story?

The details of this “folk tale” of Evangeline are extracted from two sources—the epic poem by the American poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow published in 1847, and a subsequent story written in 1907 by Judge Felix Voorheis. The judge, a St. Martinville resident, recounts a story by his grandmother in which she claimed to be the adoptive mother of a girl named Emmeline Labiche. Voorheis claims that it was Emmeline’s life story that Longfellow had heard and reshaped into the poem of Evangeline.

Longfellow’s poem, published under the title, Evangeline, A Tale of Acadie, describes the betrothal of the fictional Cajun girl named Evangeline Bellefontaine and her beloved Gabriel Lajeunesse. The poem recounts their separation when the British forcibly removed the Acadian people from the present-day Canadian provinces of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island and part of the state of Maine—an area also known as Acadie or Acadia.

In Longfellow’s poem, the Acadians were resettled in small numbers in cities across the Eastern seaboard, and Evangeline searches from city to city for her Gabriel. She eventually gives up, settles in Philadelphia, becomes a nun and works at a hospital. Years later, she finally encounters Gabriel again—though he’s now a sick old man. In the poem, he dies in her arms and within a short time, she follows him to the afterlife. In the mid-1800s it was the perfect Romeo and Juliet tale and was hugely popular.

In Judge Voorheis’ account of Emmeline Labiche, the separated lovers reunite not in Philadelphia but in St. Martinville, under a live oak tree whose branches stretched over the dark waters of Bayou Teche. The reunited lovers embrace passionately but then Gabriel (whose actual name was Louis) remembers that he is already married. Eventually, Emmeline (Evangeline) goes insane and dies.

The “Great Expulsion” or Le Grand Derangement (1755–1764) as it was known historically, occurred during the French and Indian War as part of the British military campaign against New France. The British deported approximately 11,500 French Acadians to weaken the resistance to their rule. In the first wave, Acadians were deported to the British colonies (the original 13 colonies of the U.S.). During the second wave, they were deported to Britain and France, from where many migrated to Louisiana. (source: Wikipedia)

A good reference for a more factual history of this area and its settlement by the Acadians can be found at the St. Martinville website.

Revisiting the Locke Breaux Oak

In a November 2009 post, we gave background on the first President of the Live Oak Society—the Locke Breaux Oak.

Locke-Breaux Oak circa 1956

Locke Breaux Oak, circa 1956, Southern Dairy property in Taft, LA

Since that post, I’ve received a series of emails from a reader named Brad whose mother lived next to the Locke Breaux Oak for more than a decade. Brad sent me several photographs from his mother’s archives and shared some personal stories and remembrances about his mother’s time living next to the old oak. I am adding those to the 100 Oaks Blog in memory of the Locke Breaux Oak and the people whose lives were touched by this magnificent tree.

Brad’s mother, Ruth Fahrig, was born on a dairy in Pevely, Missouri. At about the age of four, her family moved from Missouri to Louisiana where her father took over management of Southern Dairy in Taft. The family (Ruth, her parents, and two siblings) lived in a huge house owned by the dairy, and the Locke Breaux Oak stood within 100 feet of their home. Ruth and her family knew the old oak simply as “The President” and it was a familiar neighbor and daily part of Ruth’s life for more than a decade.

One of Ruth’s fond memories of “The President” was climbing to what she called the “crow’s nest”—a point in the crown of the tree where you could climb no higher. From that point, some 70 feet in the air, she could see for many miles around and look down on the ship traffic in the Mississippi River. Though there was less ship traffic in those days, it was still a treat when she could sit in her lofty nest and watch a ship slowly make it’s way past her home.  She said that she only made it up to the crow’s nest a few times because it was quite scary going up, and even scarier on the way down, when you are less able to see where to put your feet.

Ruth and her family lived in the Southern Dairy home for more than a decade before her father took over management of the Rex Dairy in Luling, about six to eight miles downriver from Taft.

Locke-Breaux Oak Circa 1940

The photograph (above) is dated 1940 and features Brad’s mother in front of the Locke Breaux Oak.

Another excerpt on the history of the Locke Breaux Oaks is taken from the book Louisiana’s German Coast: A History of St. Charles Parish, 2nd edition by Henry E. Yoes III. “St. Charles Parish held a national attraction within its boundaries, the Locke Breaux Oak named after one of its owners, Samuel Locke Breaux. Breaux was a prominent New Orleanian, a one-time president of the New Orleans Board of Trade. Before the tree was given his name, it was known as the Providence Live Oak, after the plantation that it had watched over in another era.” The Providence Plantation was later bought by the Southern Dairy Products, Inc., around 1935. One man, Leon Weiss, dominated the company. Weiss was the architect and builder of the present state capitol.

Yoes wrote further:  “At four feet above the ground, the oak measured 35 feet in circumference. it was 75 feet high and had a spread of over 166 feet. The massive oak was declared the world’s largest oak and many tourists’ maps listed it as a place to stop and visit. Unfortunately, the oak became the victim of industrialization and died soon after industrial plants began locating on the west bank.”

This 1965 photo (below) shows the dramatic decline of the tree in its very last years.

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The next two images show the Southern Dairy house in the background. It also shows the picnic area around the oak.

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The last image titled “Under the Big Tree” and dated 1940, is an example of just how huge the tree was in terms of trunk girth. What you see in the photograph is only a little more than half the width of the trunk. You can also see a significant bare bark wound, perhaps from a lightning strike.

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At some point, the Southern Dairy changed names to the Colonial Dairy. It’s unclear from St. Charles Parish records if Southern Dairy was purchased by the larger Colonial Dairy, but that’s a possibility since at one point Colonial was reportedly the largest dairy in Louisiana.

Then, around 1966, the property was sold to the Hooker Chemical company (the same company made infamous by the Love Canal chemical waste tragedy in Niagara, New York, publicized in the late 1970s.  After that point, the old tree began a slow decline in health, possibly as a result of groundwater and air pollution from the Hooker Chemical Company operations or else more natural causes.  In either case, it’s a sad day when Louisiana loses a grand old oak such as the Locke Breaux.

Live Oak Society oaks at Avery Island’s Jungle Gardens

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E.A. McIlhenny Oak

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Bill and McIlhenny historian Shane Bernard at E.A. McIlhenny Oak

When Dr. Edwin Lewis Stephens founded the Live Oak Society in 1934, he included 43 live oaks as the Society’s original members. These were familiar trees to Stephens, oaks that he had visited frequently and had personally measured to determine the 17 ft. girth minimum he set for Society membership—a size that he estimated would make the age of the tree greater than 100 years.

Of those original 43 inductee oaks, three were located at Avery Island, which for Dr. Stephens was a short day trip from his home in Lafayette. There were several sites within a short distance of Lafayette where Stephens and his wife Beverly would take friends and visiting dignitaries to introduce them to his favorite century-old oaks. These sites were part of what he called his “live oak tours.”

Through his friendship with Tabasco company president Edward Avery (“Ned”) McIlhenny, Dr. Stephens made Avery Island one of the stops on his oak tours. The Cleveland Oak (named after U.S. President Grover Cleveland) and the E.A. McIlhenny Oak were two of the original inductee trees for the Live Oak Society.

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Grover Cleveland Oak, Jungle Gardens

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Grover Cleveland Oak, view 2, showing scale with Cyndi

Ned McIlhenny was born on Avery Island in 1872 and traveled extensively during his life. He was an arctic explorer, a naturalist and conservationist. Growing up, he studied the plants and animals on Avery Island and in the surrounding salt marshes. In 1895 he founded Bird City, a private bird sanctuary for the once-endangered snowy egret.

In the 1920s, Ned found time from his business role as president of the McIlhenny Tabasco Company to transform his private Avery Island estate into Jungle Gardens. He converted the natural marshy landscape into lush gardens planted with exotic botanical specimens from around the world including more than four hundred varieties of camellias, over a hundred varieties of azaleas, fifty plus varieties of juniper, more than one thousand varieties of iris, and several species of Asian bamboo—all are plants that thrive in south Louisiana’s semitropical summers and mild winters.

Gradually Ned expanded the gardens until it reached its present size of more than 170 acres. In 1935, he opened Jungle Gardens to the public. Since then it has been a favorite tourist destination along with the Tabasco bottling factory on Avery Island.

Jungle Gardens today is home to several Live Oak Society member trees as well as one of the largest and most beautiful stands of mature live oaks in Louisiana. A few of the oaks that Dr. Stephens brought guests to see can still be found today at Avery Island’s Jungle Gardens.